My solo trip to Kalinga in November 2023 was one of my most unforgettable travels to date. It wasn’t just about meeting Whang-Od, a celebrated Filipino tattoo artist. She is renowned for her mastery of traditional Kalinga tattooing, known as batok, a technique that uses hand-tapped methods instead of modern tattoo machines. At over 100 years old, she's a cultural icon. Getting inked by her is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. It was also a chance to discover another beautiful province in the Cordillera region.
It was a day after my birthday when I traveled to Kalinga. Of course, it was my first time, and my only guide was some YouTube vlogs of people who had been there. The journey started with an 8- to 9-hour bus ride from Manila to Bontoc, Mountain Province. As far as I know, there’s no direct bus from Manila to Kalinga. From Bontoc, it was another 2- to 3-hour jeepney ride to Tinglayan.
The road to the jump-off point is considered one of the most dangerous roads in the Philippines. It twisted through sharp mountain curves, with sheer drops on one side and unstable cliffs on the other. From there, it was another 30-minute motorcycle ride (locally called habal-habal) to Buscalan. Finally, we reached the end of the road, and it was time to trek. You will need to register and hire a local guide before the trek. The hike took about 30 minutes to an hour, depending on your pace, to reach the Butbut tribe village where Apo Whang-Od lives.
The scorching heat of noontime greeted me when I arrived but it didn't stop me from my anticipation of seeing Whang Od.
After I settled and had my lunch, the tattooing session began as I chose another traditional design. This time, it was done by one of the tattoo artists in the village. I was fortunate that Whang-Od was also tattooing that day, so I lined up to get the three dots, her signature tattoo.
The tattooing process was both painful and mesmerizing. She tapped the ink into my skin using the same thorn and bamboo stick from the previous session. Each tap seemed to echo with the rhythm of the mountains. The pain was sharp and bloody, but I didn’t mind at all, understanding that her vision had already deteriorated at her age. Afterward, I felt deeply connected to the ancient art and the culture it represents.
The trek back to the jump-off point the next morning felt longer than before. However, it was still enjoyable as the morning mist blanketed the beautiful mountains. While on the habal-habal, as the driver was slowing down, we were suddenly surprised by dogs that ran toward us. I tried to lift my legs, but I didn’t notice another dog on the left, and it bit me. I told the driver immediately, and he said he would contact a local healer since there was no clinic or hospital in the area to have my leg checked or administer an anti-rabies shot.
The healer used a small tube to suck the blood above the bite to prevent the rabies from spreading, if any. I knew I needed to go to a hospital quickly, but the problem was that we had to wait for the mini-bus passing through from another town. It took at least three hours before the bus arrived, and it was already full of passengers. I had no option but to sit on the stairs. According to the locals, that was the only trip for the day.
I considered going to Baguio from Bontoc to hopefully get a vaccine there, but by the time I arrived, it was already 7 PM because the bus had many stops in Benguet. I couldn’t find a hospital or clinic in Baguio, so I had dinner and then took a bus back to Manila.
Twenty-three hours later, I received at least ten shots of anti-rabies and anti-tetanus combined. I felt paralyzed afterward but finally relieved.
For me,the journey to Buscalan was more than just about getting a tattoo; it was an experience of immersing myself in breathtaking landscapes, overcoming obstacles, and forging a profound connection with the rich cultural heritage of the Philippines.
